SPICES USED IN WESTERN AND INDIAN COOKERY

                     
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                      Down through the ages India has been known as the land of spices. Sweet or pungent, aromatic and seductive spices have played a special part in the life, legend and ritual of the country. With the march of time although there have been several changes in the use of spices, the seeds qualities for enhancing food still reign supreme.
                   The primary function of spices in Indian food is to improve the flavour of the dish. Many spices such as cloves, coriander, cumin cinnamon, etc., because of their volatile oil contents, impart various flavours to the food. These appeal to the sense of smell and render the food more palatable.
                          The primary quality the common man looks for in a food product is its organoleptic quality (or the sense of taste), rather than its nutritive value. As a result even highly nutritious food is not accepted unless it is adequately spiced. It is only where pleasure to the eye and palate meet that food becomes fully acceptable.
                                 The best chefs of the world consider flavourings and seasonings absolute necessities for achieving this objective. The success of cooking depends largely on their aid. However, spices must be used with skill and, above all, sparingly.
                          All palates do not crave highly spiced foods, yet most people demand that food should be adequately spiced, for the flavour of insipid food can be improved very much by the use of some suitable spice. Even the people of the West, particularly the English and Americans who have a tradition of bland food, are now introducing a variety of spices into their dishes and appreciating the added piquancy of the food.
                            Western palates, however, are sensitive, and therefore can appreciate the subtle flavours more readily than we do, as unfortunately, owing to the continuous consumption of over spiced foods, we have lost this power. Whenever possible, only such spices should be used as bring out the natural flavours of the main ingredient, rather than imparting a new one. Intelligence, carefulness, thorough, sound judgement, a steady hand and a keenly perceptive palate are qualifications every cook must possess in order to prepare food that is appetizing and pleasant to the taste.

                 Besides enhancing the flavour and aroma of food, spices have a physiological action beneficial to our system. They act as a stimulus to the digestive system and help digestion in many ways.

                           Every spice used in the making of a curry is a preservative. All have some antiseptic value and many are carminatives, i.e. they tend to reduce flatulence as in the case of omum (ajwain) water given to babies. The traditional combination of spices used for certain dishes must have been made with this factor in mind, e.g. the use of ginger or mint with peas. Peas are flatulence-forming and ginger or mint counteracts this effect. 

                      Asafoetida, commonly used with pulses (dals) of various types functions in a similar manner. Some spices are used to give colour to food, to improve eye appeal, e.g. turmeric in yellow rice, red chillies in vindaloo, rattanjog in roganjosh, etc. Spices also serve as a thickening agent in the preparation of curries, e.g. onion and poppy seeds.
                              The therapeutic value of spices is well known. Spices and herbs play a very important role in some of the simple but effective home remedies. Almost every spice has medicinal properties. Investigations are being conducted scientifically to elucidate the therapeutic properties of the various spices. Many have already been accepted and are being used today, e.g. aniseed (saunf) which has been used from prehistoric times as a flavouring for cough mixtures and as an herb tea to soothe the nervous system and induce sleep. Scientists have recently probed the effect of cloves on the digestion.
               Studies of clove oil have shown that it stimulates the flow of gastric juices and is non-injurious to the lining of the stomach. Garlic has been accepted in both India and China as one of the treasured spices and medicinal agents. It has been indicated in the treatment of numerous diseases such as haemorrhoids, rheumatism, dermatitis, abdominal pains, coughs, loss of appetite, etc. Although garlic is claimed to be useful in the treatment of such a variety of diseases, it is not popular because of its strong smell and pungency. Research has now made it possible to administer the active principle of garlic in a fairly concentrated form. Ginger tea is used commonly to ease an ailing stomach.
                           Nutmeg is used medicinally to cure biliousness, diarrhoea and headaches. The ancients prized the seeds of fenugreek because of its stimulating effect on the digestive system.
                
                                To enhance the flavour and aroma of foods, spices may be used whole or in pieces, as in pulaos and biryanis, or in powdered or ground form. Indian cooks are artists in the use of spices. Money may limit the variety of spices used by some, but others are limited only by their own creative imagination. While freshly ground masalas (mixed curry spices) are preferred to powdered masalas, owing to the shortage of domestic labour there is a definite trend today towards using spices mainly in powdered form.
                 Many combinations of spices to suit different tastes are marketed today as various forms of curry powders. When using spices in powdered form it is essential that the powders be extremely fine. Coarse powder do not blend well with the rest of the ingredients, this causes a separation us allowing the spices to float. The fine powders should be mixed into paste with vinegar or water and then fried well before meat or vegetables added. Besides curry powders, practically all the dry spices such coriander, turmeric, cumin, fenugreek, cloves, cinnamon, mustard, etc., can be cleaned, dried and powdered.
                      
          As a result of modern techniques, moist spices such as onion, garlic and ginger are now obtainable in powdered form. This process, while retaining the original flavours, improves the keeping quality of spices, and makes transportation more economical and easy.
                                       Onion powder is used commercially in the manufacture of processed meats and sausages, and for flavouring vegetables and meat. Garlic powder has many commercial uses and is also now being used by the housewife who wants a clean and convenient method of using this popular flavour.
                     All powdered spices, however, must be kept in airtight containers to prevent spoilage and deterioration in aroma and flavour, caused by the evaporation of volatile oils. Ground masalas are also available in the market today. They are packed in plastic bags and sold, but the keeping quality of these is poor as they are susceptible to spoilage.

                               The liquid spices now available in the market as straight liquid spices, such as liquid red chillies, green chillies, ginger, coriander, cumin, garlic, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, asafoetida, saffron, curry leaves, etc., or as ready-to-use compounds such as liquid masala for curries, pulao, mutton, fish, etc., have revolutionized the use of spices.
                            These liquid spices are extracts of indigenous natural spices and are the result of years of research. By the separation of the active principles from the residual matter, concentrations are prepared. These are easy to use and are being used widely in the commercial manufacture of sauces, fruit juices, ketchups, salad dressings, tinned pulaos, curries, etc. They have a better keeping quality than curry powders, and mix readily with the rest of the ingredients, thus bringing a uniformity of colour and flavour to the food. They are clean, compact, and suitable for transportation and storage and are available in glass bottles with droppers, ranging from 15 ml (1/2 oz) to 500 ml (1 lb). They impart original flavours and colours.
                     
                    Thickening agents such as ground onion, poppy seeds, coconut and coconut milk should still be added to maintain the desired texture of the food. For those spices where flavour is the primary function as in cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc., the liquid form can be used cost effectively. It also makes it possible to be able to use out-of-season flavours. For example, when ginger or green chillies are not available, as the summer months, the same flavours can be readily obtained by using liquid spices. Provided they are used carefully, liquid spices do not in any way increase costs, while at the same increase costs, while at the same time they save labour and time.

Allspice
             This is the berry of 'Eugenia Pimenta', a small tree grown in the West Indies. The berries are gathered when green and unripe and dried in the sun. Then they turn black. Large quantities of these are used for the manufacture of sauces and pickles sold commercially. The berries combine the flavour of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. This spice is also known as Jamaica Pepper'.

Cloves
           A very old and important spice, the clove was known before the time of the early Egyptians. The word is taken from the Latin 'Clavus' and the French "Clou' both meaning nail, which describes its shape. The clove tree of the order of the myrtle) grows to a height of 9 metres. The unopened flower buds are carefully harvested. Upon browning, they lose half their weight. Cloves are used in both Western and Indian dishes, both savoury and sweet, e.g. pulaos, cooked ham, sauces such as béchamel sauce and bread sauce, meat dishes, fruit salads, baked apple, etc. The oil of cloves is used in dentistry to soothe toothaches, and its antiseptic properties are well known. It is grown on the islands of Zanzibar, Pemba and the East Indies, West India and other tropical regions.

Nutmeg and Mace

                               These are the only known cases of two different spices from the same fruit. Nutmeg is grown in the Dutch East Indies and Grenada in the
British West Indies. The tree begins bearing fruit at the age of 8 years and continues to yield for half a century or more. In its wild state the tree grows to a height of about 22 m. or 70 ft. The nutmeg fruit resembles an apricot in size and shape. What we call the nutmeg is the seed. It is protected by a thin shell; the shell has a coat of organy flesh which dries into mace. Although the aroma of mace is similar to that of nutmeg, separate uses exist for each. Nutmeg is used in Western and Indian dishes in puddings, sweetmeats, for flavouring egg and milk and in some curries. Mace is also used to flavour sauces, stocks, sweet dishes such as halwas as well as in betel nut mixtures. Nutmeg is used grated fine and mace coarsely crushed. When buying nutmegs choose those which are round, compact, of oily appearance and heavy for their size.


Mustard
               A product of great antiquity and grown in most parts of the world, mustard is used in both Western and Indian preparations. It is used in the West in powdered form, as a table condiment and for flavouring sauces, etc. The pungency is more fully brought out when mustard is moistened with water (prepared mustard). In India it is used whole for tempering dishes, and in pickles. It is also an important ingredient in certain masala powders, e.g. vindaloo.

Cinnamon
                 This is taken from the bark of an evergreen tree belonging to the 'laurel family and is chiefly cultivated in Ceylon and the East Indies. First the outer bark is stripped of the three-year-old branches, and then the inner bark is loosened and dried. The best cinnamon should not be too dark in colour and should be as thin as paper. It has a fragrant odour and its taste is pleasant and aromatic. It is used in both Western and Indian cookery, in cakes, buns, ketchup, pickles, in pulaos with cardamom and cloves, etc. It is used in the preparation of garam masala for curries.

Cardamom
                   This is the fruit of a reed-like plant, native of the mountains of the Malabar Coast, but cultivated in Jamaica as well. The fruit is a small pod and the seeds within the pods have a strong, sweetish flavour. The pods vary from 0.5-2 cm. (14-1") and more in length. The small-sized ones are considered the best. Rich curries like korma include cardamom. Powdered cardamom is a big favourite in cakes, puddings, halwas, etc. Pulaos and biryanis also depend on this spice for their popular flavour. Tincture of cardamom is used in stomach medicines.


Pepper
           This is obtained from the seeds or berries of the plant piper nigrum which grows in Malabar and other parts of India. Black pepper is made from dried whole berries, and white pepper from the same berries with the husk dried and removed. Pepper is one of the most universally popular spices, and is used in every type of savoury dish to improve flavour and to add to its piquancy. It is also one of the table condiments.
Mignonette pepper this is ordinary white pepper coarsely crushed.
              
   Long pepper It is a spice similar in taste to ordinary pepper but not so pungent.
                 
 Cayenne pepper Dried fruits of the capsicum plant grown in the Cayenne Islands. This is red in colour, resembling the red chillies of India without being as pungent. This is used in Western cookery where pungency is required. E.g. for deviled prawns.
              
   Krona pepper Bright red pepper from the Hungarian paprika. It is much milder than cayenne pepper and forms a palatable seasoning for Western savoury dishes.
                 
Red chillies   Chillies are grown in large quantities in India and are used extensively in Indian savoury preparations. They also form an important ingredient of curry powders. Apart from being used as a condiment, they are also used in several medicinal preparations for the treatment of lumbago, neuralgia, rheumatism, etc. Although there are several varieties they fall under two main groups: Capsicum Anum and Capsicum Frutescens. The variety acuminatum (Capsicum Anum) is the principle source of commercially used red chillies.


 Coriander
                  The fruit of a plant called 'Corianderum Sativum of the parsley family. It is extensively used in the preparation of Indian savoury dishes and forms an essential ingredient of curry powders. It is used in the preparation of frankfurters (sausages) and by confectioners and distillers.
                    The leaves are used for flavouring curries, in salads and chutney and as a garnish.


Turmeric
                This is the aromatic root or rhizome of a plant grown in India and the West Indies. It is sold in root form and as powder. The hard resinous flesh of the dried root varies from a dark orange to deep reddish brown, but in the powdered form it exhibits a characteristic yellow colour. Turmeric is a member of the ginger family but has a different flavour.
It is used in curry powder not only for imparting colour and flavour to curries but also because of its preservative qualities. Game and meats that are dried are soaked in liberal quantities of turmeric and salt.
               Turmeric is used freely in Indian medicines too. Plasters of it are applied in cases of bruises; as a dry dressing on open wounds; paste of turmeric and neem leaves is used to heal smallpox marks, and so on. Turmeric has sometimes been used to replace the more expensive saffron as a colouring agent.

Ginger
            This is the tuberous root of a plant 61 cm. (2.) or more in height and is one of the few spices that grow underground. Ginger is mainly produced in Jamaica and to a less extent in Sierra Leone, China, Japan and India. Because of its stimulating and digestive properties it is employed medicinally for dyspepsia and colic. It is also frequently used at common use of ginger employed medicinally for dyspepsia and colic. It is also frequently to disguise nauseous tastes in medicines. The most common use of is in making masalas, soft drinks, pickles and preserves, and in confectionery such as ginger biscuits, gingerbread, snaps, etc.
                  Crystallized ginger is made from the young roots and is a delicacy. The best grades selected are called 'stem ginger'.
               You can make instant pickle by chopping fresh ginger and green chillies and adding lemon juice together with salt. It is delicious specially one day after preparation.


Cumin seed
                   This is an herb of the caraway type, producing seeds of a pleasant smell and flavour which are very popular. It is most widely grown in several
European countries, India and Mexico. The cumin plant is less than 30 cm high. The seeds come from the fruit and their slightly bitter taste is said to stimulate the appetite and digestive system. Cumin is added to curry powders and used whole in savouries, biscuits and fried rice. It is also used in the manufacture of liquors, pickles and sausages.


Fenugreek
                    These are the dried ripe fruits of an annual plant grown in many European countries and India. The fresh leaves and tender stalks are used widely as a vegetable. Because of their stimulating effect on the digestion they are administered medicinally even to horses and cattle.
              The seeds are used in making curry powders and fried whole for seasoning pickles and vegetables. When ground with water, fenugreek becomes a slimy paste and so is used to give batters smoothness.


Aniseed
             The seed is small, oval in shape, somewhat similar to caraway and it grows in China, Mexico, Peru, Argentina, Spain, Malta, Syria, Lebanon,
India, Pakistan, Hong Kong and Egypt.
The seed is small, oval in shape, somewhat similar to caraway and is usually a greenish brown in colour. It is used in Western preparations and in Indian dishes. It is identified with the licorice flavour. It is used in making licorice confections, in baking, in the cordial anisette and other liquors. Its digestive properties are well known and it can be eaten plain after a meal.


Fennel seed
                    The dried fruit of a perennial herb of the parsley family, fennel is grown in Europe, India, Lebanon and Argentina. The seed has a licorice-like flavour resembling anise. Fennel is used both whole and ground. Bakers use it whole in Italy to stud breads and rolls. It is also used in sweet pickles, in the seasoning of soups, fish dishes, sauces, and in South Indian meat curries. It is also attributed with medicinal properties.


Caraway seed
                        Fruit of a perennial plant of the parsley family. It has a pleasant, slightly sharp flavour with a sweet undertone. It is a native of Europe. Caraway seed is mostly used whole and is the principal flavouring in rye bread, and is widely used in rolls, biscuit and cakes. It is also used in cheeses, sauerkraut, pickles, soups, meats and stews. It is the chief ingredient of "Kummel Cordial'.


Aromatic herbs and plants
                            The ones commonly used are parsley, bay leaves, thyme, marjoram, sage, tarragon, chervil, chives, onions, shallots, garlic etc. The bouquet garni which is the mainstay of French cookery consists of sprigs of chervil, chives, thyme, bay leaves, tarragon and parsley.

Parsley - It possesses a wonderful quality of masking the taste of a stronger flavour; so do not use too much of it when flavouring a dish. It plays an important part in cookery. It not only gives a finishing touch to stews and soups and sauces, but it is also used a great deal for garnishing purposes. Powdered parsley is an excellent herb which imparts a delicate flavour. To make powdered parsley, infuse some parsley leaves in boiling water for a few seconds. Drain and put into a hot oven to dry. Put through a sieve and use as required,

Tarragon and chervil - The leaves of chervil possess a flavour which is appreciated by many people. Tarragon belongs to the same family as wormwood and the botanical name is 'Artemisia Dracunculus'. Of all the pot-herbs, tarragon and chervil give the strongest smell. They are used a great deal in French cookery for entrées, sauces, soups, salads, chaud-froids, etc. Tarragon leaves are also used for flavouring vinegar.

Thyme - It belongs to the same family as mint. The leaves are used fresh or dry for stuffings, soups, etc. It possesses a highly aromatic flavour and should, therefore, be used sparingly. Lemon thyme is a smaller variety and has a strong perfume like the rind of lemon. Leaves of ajwain (omum) can be used as a substitute for thyme.

Burnet - this is not used much in cookery now except for salads. When bruised it smells like cucumber.

Capsicum - There are several kinds of capsicum cultivated in the East and West Indies and in America. The capsicum fruit is both pungent and Stimulating, In Mexico the pods are called chili and they are used to make hot-pickle and chili-vinegar. It is the powder of the dried seeds and pods that goes to make cayenne pepper (as a substitute use Kashmir chilli powder). Capsicums are considered to be very wholesome.

Savory - There are two varieties of this herb; one is called the "summer variety". It is taken from a flowery herb. Both varieties are used extensively in Western cookery.


Marjoram - There are four kinds of marjoram. The sweet or knotted marjoram, originally a native of Portugal, is the one which is commonly used. It is used for soups, sauces, stews, etc., and used either fresh or dry.


Mint - This belongs to a family of plants called 'Labiatae'. The spearmint or the 'Mentha Viridis' commonly cultivated in gardens has a better flavour and is the one used popularly in cooking. It has the property of removing flatulence.


Bay leaves - The leaves of the common laurel are used in cookery to give a kernel-like flavour to stocks, mirepoix sauces, custards, puddings, blancmanges, and to the milk which is used for mixing cakes. They are generally dried and used.


Basil - A favourite herb in French cookery. It has a flavour similar to that of cloves. It is used for making such things as mock turtle soup and clear soups made out of shellfish. It is also used for flavouring vinegar.

Onions
                The name onion is given to all plants of the onion tribe, e.g. Leeks, garlic and shallots. The onion is, next to salt, the most valuable of all flavouring substances used in cookery. When onions, shallots or garlic are used in cookery they should be well blended with other flavours. Whenever onion is used as a condiment or seasoning and the article properly treated, the strong smell is removed.

Garlic
          This consists of groups of several bulbs called cloves, all enclosed in one membranous skin. When used carefully and sparingly, garlic is an excellent condiment. It is considered to be very wholesome and is a stimulant.

Shallots
               This bulbous root resembles garlic. It is a native of Palestine and was introduced to England by the Crusaders.

Carrots and turnips
                                 Next to onions, these are considered to be the most important flavouring vegetables for soups and sauces. Besides being used for flavouring, carrots and turnips are largely used for garnishing certain dishes such ragouts, boiled meat, etc. They are also used as a vegetable and as a purée for soup.

 Lemon
             It plays an important part in sauces. The rind, juice and the essential oils contain valuable properties. The rind or peel is used for flavouring a variety of dishes. Generally the rind is grated, but the best way is to peel the rind with a very sharp knife as thinly as possible without touching the white part. Lemon rind is preserved in sugar.
           When sour limes are in season buy them in large quantities. Extract the juice and mix one cup of salt to every four cups of juice. Shake well and keep in an airtight bottle-under refrigeration it keeps for months. Use whenever fresh lime is required.


Vanilla
            This was first discovered by the Spaniards. It is the fruit of an orchid.
            The best variety is grown in Mexico. It has a delicious flavour and is largely used for flavouring puddings, custards, liquor chocolate, etc. For flavouring purposes it is better to use the vanilla pod or vanilla sugar rather than the essence of vanilla, since the odour of the essence escapes rapidly.



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